Makoto Shinkai’s long-awaited new animated masterpiece, SUZUME is now out in cinemas across the UK! This emotional coming-of-age story follows 17-year-old Suzume Iwato who, after a fateful encounter with Souta Munakata, finds herself wrapped up in an epic road journey across Japan to close various supernatural doors that threaten to bring mass destruction. From breath-taking rural coastlines to dazzling metropolises, we take you through Suzume’s journey from Kyushu all the way to Tohoku.
Miyazaki
While the sleepy but picturesque port town where Suzume and her aunt live is fictitious, the sleuths among us and Japanese audiences have picked up on several cues that place the film’s opening location in Miyazaki prefecture, Kyushu. These include a shot of the regional weather forecast shown on TV, car licence plates as well as the local dialect of Suzume’s classmates.
Nichinan Coast in Miyazaki, known for its unique rock formations
As depicted in gorgeous splendour in the film through Shinkai’s trademark visual style, Miyazaki is renowned for its beautifully rich and rugged coastline. It is a paradise for surfers and other outdoor sports enthusiasts, as well as those who enjoy scenic coastal drives and exploring seaside shrines such as Udo Jingu.
Visitors who prefer mountains over beaches can retreat to Takachiho Gorge whose steep sides and lush forests provide shade for relaxing boat tours. Either way, trying some of Miyazaki’s locally grown mangoes is a must!
Takechiho Gorge with its volcanic basalt sides; boats can be rented to enjoy the view of Minai Waterfall from below.
Ehime
Chasing down a trickster cat who has turned Souta into a three-legged chair, Suzume finds herself accidentally aboard a ferry to Ehime prefecture, our next stop!
Located in Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, Ehime is not only dubbed Japan’s kingdom of oranges; it is also home to the country’s oldest hot spring, Dogo Onsen, which is said to be one of the inspirations for the iconic bath-house in Studio Ghibli’s ‘Spirited Away’. Ehime’s other architectural feats come in the form of two of Japan's twelve original castles: Matsuyama Castle and Uwajima Castle.
The Shimanami Kaido 70 km cycling route also spans from the town of Imabari in Ehime all the way to Onomichi in Hiroshima, crossing several islands within the Seto Inland Sea. And speaking of islands and cats, why not hop on a 30-min ferry from Nagahama port to Aoshima, aka Cat Island?
Daijin, the mysterious and mischievous cat that appears in SUZUME © Crunchyroll and 2022 "Suzume" Film Partners
Tokushima
Continuing on her quest, Suzume hitches a ride from Ehime to Kobe, passing through Tokushima prefecture along the way. Tokushima is most famous for its Awa Odori Festival, held annually during Japan’s Obon Period in August, where hundreds of traditional folk dancers take to the streets of downtown Tokushima in a vibrant celebratory display.
Suzume then crosses Onaruto Bridge, a prime observation point for Tokushima’s Naruto whirlpools. These whirlpools form in the strait between Awaji Island and Shikoku, due to the push and pull of the tides. Before leaving Tokushima, make sure to visit Iya Valley, remote Japan at its finest, filled with rocky gorges and Indiana Jones-esque vine bridges.
Awaji Island
Awaji Island is the largest island in the Seto Inland Sea which connects Tokushima to Kobe and although Suzume and co. don’t actually make an on-screen pit stop there, there’s no reason why you shouldn't. Especially if you like onions. Awaji is famous for them! There are even onion vending machines and a giant onion sculpture on Uzu Hill!
But if you’re not too keen on onions, there’s still plenty to see and do! Fans of modern architecture should be sure to add Awaji Yumebutai to their itineraries. Designed by Takao Ando, the 100 terraced flower bed garden is a dedication to the victims of the Great Hanshin Earthquake in 1995. There’s also the Nijigen no Mori theme park with a zip line that runs straight into the jaws of Godzilla himself, as well as Goshiki Beach, which gets its name from the five colours of the beach’s pebbles and has an unbeatable sunset view.
The jewel of Awaji Island is undoubtedly the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the world’s longest suspension bridge which connects the island to the mainland. Sweeping panoramic views of the Akashi strait and Osaka Bay can be enjoyed along the Maiko Marine Promenade, a walkway which offers a unique view of the bridge’s underbelly, or atop the 300m towers through special tours.
Kobe
Next up on our list is the cosmopolitan city of Kobe, famous world-wide for its premium beef and home to one of Japan’s three Chinatown districts, Nakinmachi. An important landmark in Japan’s trade history, Kobe port was one of the first in the country to be opened to international waters in the 19th century. The resulting foreign influences can be seen in the city's present landscape, from its distinct architecture, such as that in the Kitano district, to its diverse culinary scene.
Kobe’s nightscape is considered Japan’s best and can be appreciated right on the waterfront at Kobe Harborland, a popular shopping and entertainment complex, and Meriken Park where the Kobe Port Tower and ‘Be Kobe’ monument stand; or ride the Kobe-Nunobiki ropeway up the nearby Mount Rokko for a breath-taking scene of the entire city.
The highlight of the city’s year is the Kobe Luminarie event, the annual winter light-up event held every December, in memory of the Great Hanshin Earthquake in 1995.
Tokyo
What Japan road-trip is complete without a quick pop-in to the capital? This is exactly what Suzume does, taking the 3-hour JR Sanyo-Tokaido bullet train from Shin-Kobe station to Tokyo station.
A popular sight-seeing attraction that makes it to the big screen is none other than tourist-favourite Sensoji Buddhist Temple in Asakusa, famous for its giant red Kaminarimon Thunder Gate lantern and old Edo-period atmosphere.
Suzume, however, spends most of her time in Tokyo in the humble neighbourhood of Ochanomizu, just one stop away from Akihabara, the hub of all things games, anime and electronics. Ochanomizu is known for its many second-hand musical instrument stores, book shops and cheap eats, making it a great place to break from the electric town crowds.
The most recognisable spot in Ochanomizu is the view from Hijiri-bashi Bridge of railroad crossing over Kanda River to Ochanomizu station. This exact view appears in SUZUME itself and serves as a key location for the film’s mid-climax.
Ochanomizu station from Hijiri-bashi Bridge © frameoftravel on Instagram
Tohoku
Suzume’s epic journey ends where it begins: in the Tohoku region where the Great East Earthquake of Japan struck in 2011, an event that Shinkai engages with directly in SUZUME. Despite the tragedy and devastation, the beauty of Tohoku has persevered thanks to human resilience and, twelve years on, it stands proudly as one of the most exciting and memorable regions to visit in Japan. This includes Miyako in Iwate prefecture, the area believed to be where Suzume was born and returns to near the end of the film. There’s even a white ‘door’ there now that replicates the one that appears in the film!
Miyako is known for its beautiful coastline, which has endured and recovered since the 2011 tsunami thanks to local efforts. Jodogahama white-pebble beach is the city’s pride, boasting cobalt-blue waters and distinct jagged rocky outcroppings.
These local efforts were part of the Michinoku Coastal Trail project. What started out as a reconstruction project to reclaim the disaster-stricken coast developed into a 1000 km hiking trail along the northeastern Tohoku coast that was spearheaded by local communities and government agencies. Opened in 2019, the trail spans 28 cities and towns across 4 prefectures; from Hachinohe city in Aomori to the north, all the way to Soma city in Fukushima to the south, and encompasses stunning remote beaches, rugged but romantic cliffs and quaint local fishing villages.
The White Deer sculpture standing tall on seashell shores of Ogihama beach on the Oshika Peninsula © White Deer (Oshika) by Kohei Nawa, photo by Takehiro Goto
Another notable regeneration project in Tohoku is the Reborn Art Festival. Established in 2017, it is a celebration of art, music and food, held every 2 years in the Ishinomaki and Oshika areas of Miyagi, one of the regions hardest hit by the 2011 tsunami. One of the festival's most famous art installations is the White Deer sculpture by Kohei Nawa. Now a permanent landmark on Oshika Peninsula, the deer is a symbol of hope and recovery and coincidentally faces the Seto Inland Sea where both it and Suzume began their journeys.
© Crunchyroll and 2022 "Suzume" Film Partners
Makoto Shinkai’s SUZUME is released in UK cinemas from 14 April 2023; find out more here!
